Trying to Identify Kernel, Possible Overclocking Possibilities for DM7022 Radio

[lucacioc]

I can confirm Adhoc wifi test worked last night and my WIFI OBD turned up today. Tests with Torque connected to it without issue. I'll write up etc later tonight after work.
Gareth

Hey spacey, at the end wich method did you use to connect to ad-hoc network?

Did you work only with different version of wp_supplicant and/or edit configurations file (i never tried an adhoc configuration before).

I hope to get my Kiwi PLX WiFi this week (so I'am very interested), now I have a bluetooth odb but I can't connect to, i recompile the btusb.ko to enable blutooth dongle but nothing to do, i can insmod but the dongle don't work!

 

[wuoma]

Ok, so I've now been using the ES777A in my car a few days. There is one thing I still cannot understand - tell me if your unit does this too!
When I connect the PAD part to the car unit, it reboots the Android sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I haven't been able to figure out when/why it does this and how I could prevent it. When the pad is connected and I shut the car off, the car unit shuts down and so does the pad. If I disconnect the pad before turning off the car everything seems fine, but after I reconnect the pad after starting the car again it reboots the Android. But other times it doesn't... any idea about the logic behind this?

 

[spacey]

HI All,
Sorry to disappear over the last four or so days. I've really not been well and despite trying on a couple of occasions looking at a computer screen has been the last thing I've felt up to doing. Anyway, I'm almost back on my feet and I can at least look at a Pc now, I'll recap over this thread this afternoon and post any replies I owe you and hopefully health allowing I'll post the write up on Ad hoc. which is definitely working well, well that’s what my fiancée keeps telling me (she's pinch my car whilst I can’t drive it )

Bye for now.
Gareth

 

[spacey]

Ok, so I've now been using the ES777A in my car a few days. There is one thing I still cannot understand - tell me if your unit does this too!
When I connect the PAD part to the car unit, it reboots the Android sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I haven't been able to figure out when/why it does this and how I could prevent it. When the pad is connected and I shut the car off, the car unit shuts down and so does the pad. If I disconnect the pad before turning off the car everything seems fine, but after I reconnect the pad after starting the car again it reboots the Android. But other times it doesn't... any idea about the logic behind this?

Yep, my pad does the same. One of my previous posts warns about this. Especially, if you plug the PAD in and try and start the car and it doesn’t fire on the first crank. I’ve spiked my unit a couple of times to the point it locks up and the screen get permanently stuck with the car logo on screen. All attempts to change source etc fail. Ended holding in the reset button for at least 30 – 40 seconds before it recovers. On one occasion I had to unplugging the unit for the car and hold reset in and supply power before I could get the screen to recover. Anyway, the problems you describe I tracked down on my car to the drop in voltage in the ignition ACC on position. e.g. you go to start car. The unit turns on and starts to fire up... as the engine cranks over the voltage/current drops and the unit issues a shutdown to the pad. Same with powering off as soon as you turn passed the ignition “ACC power on” point the unit issues a shutdown. If the pad’s not connected it doesn’t receive the shutdown. I have on occasion had the engine running unplugged the unit done something (play game etc) plugged the pad back in to the head unit and then its entered powering off state. I’ve not found a fix for this but I’ve put it down to the pad going from internal battery to plugged in power supply and getting confused so shuts down but I have little evidence for that.

I'm in the process of build a quick and dirty little circuit that will give a power on delay and power off delay that i can run in line with the ignition. That way I can set the power on delay to say 1 minute (should be enough time for me to finish starting the car) and a 4 minute power off delay. That way I can stop the engine gather my things and unplug the pad from the head unit before the main unit issues a power off.

BTW, I proved that the above will work by swapping my ignition supply for a permanent live and the problems went away but obviously that’s not a good permanent solution.

I’ve looked for an aftermarket solution but I’ve not been able to find anything. I know something out their must exists but not that I’ve found yet.
Gareth

 

[wuoma]

Yep, my pad does the same. One of my previous posts warns about this. Especially, if you plug the PAD in and try and start the car and it doesn’t fire on the first crank. I’ve spiked my unit a couple of times to the point it locks up and the screen get permanently stuck with the car logo on screen. All attempts to change source etc fail. Ended holding in the reset button for at least 30 – 40 seconds before it recovers. On one occasion I had to unplugging the unit for the car and hold reset in and supply power before I could get the screen to recover. Anyway, the problems you describe I tracked down on my car to the drop in voltage in the ignition ACC on position. e.g. you go to start car. The unit turns on and starts to fire up... as the engine cranks over the voltage/current drops and the unit issues a shutdown to the pad. Same with powering off as soon as you turn passed the ignition “ACC power on” point the unit issues a shutdown. If the pad’s not connected it doesn’t receive the shutdown. I have on occasion had the engine running unplugged the unit done something (play game etc) plugged the pad back in to the head unit and then its entered powering off state. I’ve not found a fix for this but I’ve put it down to the pad going from internal battery to plugged in power supply and getting confused so shuts down but I have little evidence for that.

I'm in the process of build a quick and dirty little circuit that will give a power on delay and power off delay that i can run in line with the ignition. That way I can set the power on delay to say 1 minute (should be enough time for me to finish starting the car) and a 4 minute power off delay. That way I can stop the engine gather my things and unplug the pad from the head unit before the main unit issues a power off.

BTW, I proved that the above will work by swapping my ignition supply for a permanent live and the problems went away but obviously that’s not a good permanent solution.

I’ve looked for an aftermarket solution but I’ve not been able to find anything. I know something out their must exists but not that I’ve found yet.
Gareth

Thanks for the explanation, I was suspecting something similar.
I'd be 100% cool if it worked like this:
-Engine off, connect pad and start the car -> pad boots up if shut down (reboots even if powered on)
-Engine running, pad connected, turn off engine -> pad shuts down

but on top of that my pad sometimes just reboots when I connect it when the car is running and the head unit is on. Sometimes there's no problem and when I have the pad turned on and connect it to the head unit while the car is running everything works normally.
Now I've started to just shut down the pad completely (not just the screen) before connecting it to the car head unit so it doesn't just reboot while in the middle of some writing process and leave crap on the internal memory or sdcard...

EDIT:
I had a thought about the delay, maybe the problems could be removed my simply installing a small capacitor in line with the acc lead to the head unit. That could be enough to balance out the power input.

 

[spacey]

Hey spacey, at the end wich method did you use to connect to ad-hoc network?

Did you work only with different version of wp_supplicant and/or edit configurations file (i never tried an adhoc configuration before).

I hope to get my Kiwi PLX WiFi this week (so I'am very interested), now I have a bluetooth odb but I can't connect to, i recompile the btusb.ko to enable blutooth dongle but nothing to do, i can insmod but the dongle don't work!

No, all I did was to replace the wpa_supplicant file (although it did take 18 or so attempts to find one that works). The key was to find out what version you have and then try and find one that’s compatible.
I want to write this up better than this quick reply but just to get the ball rolling here's a quick recap from memory of what I did...



First ensure wifi is disable/off before attempting this,

Either by ADB or Android terminal (I've used this one but better ones exist https://market.android.com/details?id=jackpal.androidterm&hl=en)
execute your existing wpa_supplicant file to find the version. This is critical when trying to find a replacement.

e.g. Via ADB

New cmd prompt
Cd to my location of ADB commands
You may need to issue connect command (I don’t always need to) Adb.exe connect localhost:5037
adb.exe shell

# /system/bin/wpa_supplicant -v
/system/bin/wpa_supplicant -v
wpa_supplicant v0.6.10
Copyright (c) 2003-2009, Jouni Malinen <[email protected]> and contributors

The important part here is the version number. I believe prior to Android 2.3.3 most versions of this file we’re 0.5.x (x = 5, 8 & 11 but again looks to depend on the device) and some devices even had customised versions for their tablets/phones.
I can’t guarantee this will work for the older ES666A pads as I’ve no version to test on. The best I can say is try the 0.5.11 Version from the linked here:
As the 0.6.10 replacement that I use was based on the same tablet/source. So in theory it should work. AGAIN MAKE SURE YOU BACK UP WPA_SUPPLICANT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.

The below wpa_supplicant.7z file contains the 0.6.10 version I’m using on the ES777A Android 2.3.3
Forum Source for 6.10: xda-developers - View Single Post - [FIXED] Adhoc working without any file editing !!!
Direct file link 6.10 ONLY: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=382057&d=1282044164

Files I would try if I had a ES666A running 2.1
Forum Source: Thread started as the same as above 0.6.10 but links off to this 0.5.11 version: Android Ad-hoc support hack/wpa_supplicant - xda-developers
Direct file link 0.5.11 ONLY http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=380322&d=1281834626

I don’t know android well enough to say that the 0.6.10 version will work on the old version. I actually BELIEVE IT WON’T as it looks to link in to other libraries that would also need updating but if you feel brave it’s your call. I’d recommend against it.

Equally, I found this link (xda-developers - View Single Post - [06 Nov 2011][MAG/cLK] NexusHD2-Gingerbread V3.2a (GWK74)(Android 2.3.7)[tytung_r13]) after I got my unit working but book marked it just in case I did have problems as it was another version to try. AGAIN I HAVEN’T TRIED THESE VERSIONS MYSELF. I DON’T KNOW WHAT IT WILL DO. Sorry for all the caps just don’t want somebody to install these files and then moan at me because it either doesn’t work or worst still it breaks android in some way.

Once you’ve picked a file to try.
List the current owner and group for the wpa_supplicant file. Also make a note of the files permission
Again via ADB and whilst within ADB shell run:
ls -l /system/bin/wpa_supplicant Make a note of the owner and the group. (on my device its “root” & “sdcard_rw” but I think this should actually be root and WIFI) Unfortunlaty, i didnt make a note before copying the new file of the SD card. As i didnt expect the group to change but it did.

You’ll need to make sure you have this information before you continue. As its likely you'll need it later to restore the Owner, Group, & file permissions on the new file once you've replace the file with the new version.

Now rename your existing wpa_supplicant to something like wpa_supplicant_org
Either upload the new file onto the SD card or use ADB to push the file to the /system/bin/ location.
Once you placed the new file into /system/bin/wpa_supplicant check the file ownership and permissions and if needs be chown, chgrp and chmod the files appropriately to restore them as before.
It’s critical that the system has execute permissions otherwise WIFI won’t be able to be turned on.

Now if everything has gone well you should be able to re-enable Wi-Fi and see adhoc connections. Now depending on what you connect to the problem you might have is not being able to obtain an IP address. This is the most common issue its either caused by a miss matching wpa_ supplicant file or in my case a couple of times a corrupt cache of DHCP info. Try renaming the following file /data/misc/dhcp/dhcpcd-wlan0.lease to /data/misc/dhcp/dhcpcd-wlan0.lease.org. restart the device and it’ll recreate the file. This fixed my DHCP issue.

I also purchased a WIFI manager (https://market.android.com/details?id=org.kman.WifiManager&hl=en) off the market place to simplify my connectivity going forward. Given the Adhoc network ODB adapter I have realise on a static IP address. I didn’t want to have to keep swapping between static and DHCP under the default wireless manager. This WI-FI manager allows you to setup static IP’s for one connection and DHCP for the rest. The only thing you don’t appear to be able to do is specify a preferred order of connections when multiple are in range. Again I’m sure there are better managers but this is so far best I’ve found.

Again apologies of this scrappy write up, I’m still not 100% with it. So feel free to ask questions etc.
Gareth

 

[dyn620]

Ok, so I've now been using the ES777A in my car a few days. There is one thing I still cannot understand - tell me if your unit does this too!
When I connect the PAD part to the car unit, it reboots the Android sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I haven't been able to figure out when/why it does this and how I could prevent it. When the pad is connected and I shut the car off, the car unit shuts down and so does the pad. If I disconnect the pad before turning off the car everything seems fine, but after I reconnect the pad after starting the car again it reboots the Android. But other times it doesn't... any idea about the logic behind this?

Hi, my ES777 works the same way. With this ACC reboot issue i decided to choose easiest way - make it permanently ON i.e. connect Yellow and Red on ES777 with the +12v on the car side. I know i have to be careful as it can discharge car battery if i leave it "ON" for a night.

I already had to build small VR circuit to help its ADC to read steering wheel controls in my X-Trail 2010 as ES777 doesn`t recognize signals from the steering wheel right out the box. For the reboot issue i prefer to stay with the easiest solution and always remember to turn the stereo off manually.

 

[wuoma]

Hi, my ES777 works the same way. With this ACC reboot issue i decided to choose easiest way - make it permanently ON i.e. connect Yellow and Red on ES777 with the +12v on the car side. I know i have to be careful as it can discharge car battery if i leave it "ON" for a night.

I already had to build small VR circuit to help its ADC to read steering wheel controls in my X-Trail 2010 as ES777 doesn`t recognize signals from the steering wheel right out the box. For the reboot issue i prefer to stay with the easiest solution and always remember to turn the stereo off manually.

Does it do the rebooting if you have the pad turned on at first, start the car, turn on the stereo unit, and after that connect the pad? Mine does that about 50% of the time.

 

[spacey]

Does it do the rebooting if you have the pad turned on at first, start the car, turn on the stereo unit, and after that connect the pad? Mine does that about 50% of the time.

I think you'll find they all do it (well I know my one does 40-50% of the time) . I'm convinced it’s to do with the switch over from internal pad battery to charging on car battery.
Gareth

 

[dyn620]

Does it do the rebooting if you have the pad turned on at first, start the car, turn on the stereo unit, and after that connect the pad? Mine does that about 50% of the time.

It has rebooted in such conditions only one or two times. Normally i start the engine, turn on main unit, wait, connect sleeping (or switched off) PAD to the main unit and it works. Tomorrow i will try to connect working PAD to working main unit several times and let you know.

Honestly, i have not focused on this "reboot" issue yet as i still have more important problems - can`t use it as a bluetooth handsfree, can`t find the way to increase volume of audio from the PAD to the same level as radio, etc. Probably some hacking of wince base is also required

I`ve also noticed that my PAD is working unstable with some mSD cards and even reboots sometimes or halts during the boot with "system not responding" or similar b.s. on the screen.

 

[wuoma]

...Probably some hacking of wince base is also required ...

If you get to this phase please let me (and everyone else) know
I'd like to get rid of the Volkswagen logo on my unit....

 

[spacey]

It has rebooted in such conditions only one or two times. Normally i start the engine, turn on main unit, wait, connect sleeping (or switched off) PAD to the main unit and it works. Tomorrow i will try to connect working PAD to working main unit several times and let you know.

Honestly, i have not focused on this "reboot" issue yet as i still have more important problems - can`t use it as a bluetooth handsfree, can`t find the way to increase volume of audio from the PAD to the same level as radio, etc. Probably some hacking of wince base is also required

I`ve also noticed that my PAD is working unstable with some mSD cards and even reboots sometimes or halts during the boot with "system not responding" or similar b.s. on the screen.

Hi Dyn620,
Sorry this is going to be a dumb question but regarding the pad volume. I just wanted to check that you've got the pad audio up to max and that your choosing the pad icon on the head unit main menu??
e.g. radio, dvd, usb, ipad etc etc and PAD.

I know I got caught out tonight whilst driving home by pressing PAD on the main unit and then play within the music android app but the audio was nonexistent. Finally found that the pad volume was very low but unit I use the pad icon it didn’t route the sound via the head unit.

Again simple but just discounting the basics.
Gareth

 

[TDI_Votex]

... I believe prior to Android 2.3.3 most versions of this file we&#8217;re 0.5.x (x = 5, 8 & 11 but again looks to depend on the device) and some devices even had customised versions for their tablets/phones.
I can&#8217;t guarantee this will work for the older ES666A pads as I&#8217;ve no version to test on.

I just checked, and ES666A has wpa_supplicant v0.6.9

 

[spacey]

Oh I stand corrected. I'll update my post to that effect later.
Thanks for looking.
Gareth

Sent from my Android for Telechips M801 Evaluation Board using Android Tablet Forum

 

[dyn620]

Does it do the rebooting if you have the pad turned on at first, start the car, turn on the stereo unit, and after that connect the pad? Mine does that about 50% of the time.

Update.
No, not even once. I`ve tried several times. Probably mine does that less than 10% of the time.